Since the rebuild we are unable to get it to stop leaking into the crank case Aluminum motorcycle motors are filled with aluminum and others bits of metal New parts included a new crank, all new internal bearings, new piston and rings, new cylinder, all new gaskets and the head was rebuilt about.
Frozen liquid, is that bad? Is this the coolant overflow? : DRZ400
For a coolant change on the drz you would have to of loosened the coolant drain bolt on the rear brake side of the bike near the water pump
This drains the coolant from the motor
Some flushing with distilled water should also occur to rinse the passages After this is done you can take your premixed or mix your own fluid, place the water pump bolt back in and start filling I purchased this drz used and immediately i realized how poorly this thing was maintained I bought it thinking it just needed a carb rebuild, and that certainly is not the case
It runs and idles well following the carb rebuild but i immediately stopped running it when i realized the rads were empty It had milky oil, and no coolant in the radiators making me think the headgasket is. Meaning that with a cheap wp rebuild kit, a battery, new gas, and a coolant flush this could be a great low miles bike Is there anything more serious that can happen within the engine that i should be worried about?
It stops leaking after it sits because the coolant contracts as it cools , reducing the pressure in the system
There may be a small leak there ( block, hose New head gasket new oem water pump kit The basic procedure described below will guide you through a drain, flush. The basic procedure described below will guide you through a drain, flush, change and filling your coolant system
It is recommend the use of low or non silicate coolant
